IV. TURKEY – LIMESTONE TERRACED POOL AND MYSTERIOUS CAVES VALLEY

DAY 18

18) FRIDAY, 15 JULY 1977 : 272KMS. - ISTANBUL
 

We drove on the long bridge across the river Ebros into the territory of TURKEY at the border town IPSALA. No problem for entering formality but waiting time was a bit long because there were many tourists at the checkpoint (with soldiers holding guns on duty).  

Greece-Turkey border - Photo : skyscrapercity.com / Google images search

The sight over the bridge was endless sunflower fields stretching to the horizon, the Greek soldiers patrolling  in their respective area. I knew in the German language class, after enrolling at  Universität Stuttgart from my Turkish and Greek classmates that the two countries  were seemingly incompatible. Both countries tried to usurp the supreme authority in possessing Cyprus.

We left the border checkpoint around noon time. The road now was up and down  "three miles up, three miles down!"  and "acres and acres of sunflower!"  like the Australian guy told us. It was very pleasant and relaxing to see the beauty view along the way until we reached ISTANBUL.  Probably this was a kind of cropping rotation,  a second crop growing after wheat harvesting. I did not see any bee-keeping box (for collection of honey) near sunflower fields, the same as in Yugoslavia.

Photo : Bing images search

From IPSALA, we drove  through TEKRIDAG  and SILIVR. Byzantine churches of the Greek Orthodox became less to sight but more mosques with high minarets were obvious along the way. We arrived in ISTANBUL around 6.00 pm.

ISTANBUL : Google sattlelite

ISTANBUL (or CONSTANTINOPLE) is a very big city and could be called city of two continents, Asia and Europe , with the Strait of Bosphorus ( connecting the Black Sea and the Sea of ​​Marmara). Before entering the city, there are remains of ancient city walls visible from afar. As soon as we passed the city walls, I  began to feel that we were facing heavy congestion because there were a lot of cars and very crowded people. 

Blue Mosque - Photo : Bing images search

Turkish drivers seemed to like “zigzaging” (to swerve) their vehicles out of lanes as well as honking loudly. People were scouting around on both sides of the roads. One would cross the roads anywhere he likes. 

We drove to the central area and parked near the park in front of the well-known Blue Mosque. What we saw inside the mosque was not so beautiful as I had seen from pictures, the work was not so fine.   

Interior of the Blue Mosque - Photo : Bing images search

The mosque was in a poor condition and currently under repair. The workmanship of patterned dome ceiling looks rougher than I thought. It is notable that the mosque is very large. 

Photo : Bing images search

Floor is covered with carpets everywhere,  roughly guessed about a hundred pieces and each one has its unique beautiful pattern - invaluable though.

 

Photo : Bing images search

Before entering the mosque, all Muslims must wash their feet at the washing area provided with faucets in the inner court of the mosque.

“The Pudding Shop” - Old picture - Photo : Bing images search

 

Pudding Shop at a later date - Photo : Bing images search

In the parking area we were camping, there were almost 10-20 cars.  The guards on duty and asked for parking fee of 10.- TL (7 TLire = 1 DM). Nearby there was a cheap hotel for  hippies and a well-known meeting point in general. It was a coffee shop called "The Pudding (Coffee) Shop".

Messages board in the "Pudding Shop"  - Photo : Bing images search

At "The Pudding (Coffee) Shop" there was a board for posting messages, written on small pieces  of  paper with contact addresses. To those travelling to or from Asia and Europe, if they wanted to leave any news or messages they can put them on this board  for others to check them.

For me, ISTANBUL is like ATHENS,  nothing much to see, except the Blue Mosque and the Palace Museum in TOPKAPI and the city is very dirty as well.

DAY 17 - PHERRAI

17) THURSDAY, 14 JULY 1977 : 263KMS. - PHERRAI
 

Leaving IRAKLITSA in the morning, we drove along the way to KAVALA, XANTHE, and KOMOTINI.  There were tobacco plantations on both sides.

Tobacco - Photo : Bing images search

We saw tobacco leaves hanging on line for drying under big trees in house areas all along the roadsides. In the forecourt there were family members selecting and hanging tobacco leaves for drying.  There were army barracks now and then as we were moving near the Greece – Turkey border.  Their relation as neighbours are not so fine because of a dispute over the territory of Cyprus.

Sun-drying tobacco leaves - Photo :  Bing images search

In ALEXANDROUPOLIS, I asked Tilo to stopped on the way to buy watermelon and peaches (26 peaches for 50.- Drachmen).  When I left Germany, I intended to eat as many peaches as I can before leaving Europe as I love this fruit and it is certain that I will have less chance to taste  it so often again when I am back home. 

Photo : lainbloom.blogspot / Bing images search

I saw a Greek vase, painted in red and black with ancient Greek design for a souvenir but it didn’t look so fine as I expected.

Photo : Bing images search

From ALEXANDROUPOLIS, we continued to PHERRAI, where we stopped to camp overnight   near old Byzantine church (900 years old).

Byzantine church in PHERAI -  Photo : studistaralexpoli / Bing images search

Before  PHERRAI, I saw a few buffaloes lying near the road. They looked like those water buffaloes in Thailand but having lighter skin color.

DAY 16 - IRAKRITSA

16) WEDNESDAY, 13 JULY 1977 : 163KMS. - IRAKRITSA

Route from KATERINE via IRAKRITSA (H), GREECE to IZMIR (S) in TURKEY

After breakfast, we had routine check for oil and filling battery water then set off north to THESALONIKI. We parked  overnight in IRAKRITSA, a seaside town with a very long beach.  Many people came for swimming  in spite of very big waves.  I took a chance to shower and wash my hair as there were service points  for  freshwater  shower near the beach.

Raintree flowers -Photo :Joegoauk3 (Flickr / Bing images search)

I found  in this area many raintrees , they were  blossoming  that I could smell.   They have bigger  leaves than what I have seen in Thailand but no seedpods yet.  Probably it was still too early for podding or they are  of different  variety.



GREEK DANCE on You Tube

 

DAY 15 - near KITROS KATERINE

15) MONDAY, 12 JULY 1977 : 378 kms. - Beach near KITROS KATERINE

I woke up and saw the Gypsies still camping there but the children did not come to watch us. When I got back from the sea after breakfast, I tried to have fresh water shower using a rubber pouch  filled up with water and let it hanging on the branch of olive tree to let the water pouring down from the shower.

We continued on the road to LAMIA. On both  sides of the road were olive groves and tomatoes planted alternately.

Olive trees - Photo : Bing imges search

Passing LAMIA and LARISSA , we stopped to buy a sweet melon , cucumbers , onions , eggs, bread and milk in KATERINI.  We went on to the seaside for  camping overnight , not far from KATERINI (about 10 kms) .

The parking area where we camped was next to the  beach but there were not many people. Apparently, it was because of shallow water, there were also many fishing boats. Here we met the Australian couple who were travelling in the opposite direction to ours. We  talked about their past experiences both in INDIA and in other countries they passed through in both optimistic and pessimistic views. This  was very useful for  us to be wary.  At night many mosquitoes as well as plenty of insects invaded into our campervan.

Olympus mountain range in the background

On the way, before reaching KATERINE , we stopped to take photos of the OLYMPUS ( 2,917 meters high ) mountain range, which is significant to the Olympic games. The fire for Olympic torch is always lit here from the  sun on the OLYMPUS hilltop.