DAY 74 - HERAT

74) FRIDAY, 9 SEPTEMBER 1977 : 0KMS. - HERAT

We spent an  easy  and  restful  day in HERAT, doing nothing.

HERAT street scene - Photo : Robert Lankenau / Bing images search

Covered market - Photo : Bing images search

DAY 73 - HERAT

73) THURSDAY, 8 SEPTEMBER 1977 : 0KMS. - HERAT

Went to check  mail at the post office in the morning but there was nothing.  I took time to note down my travel diary and write letters and some postcards. 

Shops in HERAT - Photo : Bing images search

 

Photo : Tilo Grabowski

In the afternoon, we went to buy  fabric for my  Afghan suit like Tilo’s. I chose dusky pink color and had it made. It costed me  320. – AFG.

DAY 72 - HERAT

72) WEDNESDAY, 7 SEPTEMBER 1977: 0KMS. - HERAT

Went to check mails at the Poste Restante but there was only a letter from  BEK, a health insurance company  in Germany.  When I was sick (before our journey took place about 2 months) and got my left lung operation while in Germany,   all expenses were paid by this insurance company .   

HERAT Citadel

Then we went to have a look around the city and the market. It was quite interesting . People seemed very friendly with foreigners , some look like me (Asian look). It is interesting to know that Afghanistan  has borders with China and Russia in the PAMIR region.  The Mongols  are also inhabitants  in the north-east .  From history, this territory had been conquered by Genghis Khan and  fell under Mongol occupation up to 100 years (AD 1220-1332 ) .
Most people thought  that I was Japanese but I told them back that I was an Afghan, if the person  asking me looked very similar to me.

Carpet vendor in HERAT - Photo : Tilo Grabowski

HERAT has the  atmosphere  of  authentic East.  There were less cars compared with other cities but the use of horse carriages were evident.  They were beautiful  decorated .  We also saw people riding on donkeys’ backs.   Most people wear  native costumes,  women  were covered  by  chadors from head to foot.  They are not allowed  anyone  to  see their faces  but  they can look through perforated pattern at the eyes-level.  Some chadors were beautiful plaiting at the head area and pleated at  the back.  They were in different colors, mostly in light blue .  Traditionally and popular color of chador is in dark shade or black and not flashy.  The fabric used for chador look like expensive  silk.

Afghanis women in chador - Photo : Bing images search

As for men’s attire,  they wear baggy Afghani pants and long sleeved Afghani shirts,  leaving  them outside the pants .   They  also have turbans and vests or coats.  Then in September, the temperature as from the morning and afternoon to evening  as well as at night time was windy and cold.  We saw men wearing  a series of color,  such as green and  purple colors , etc.  We would love to be assimilated with local Afghans and enjoyed this idea, so Tilo had one set of Afghani pants and shirt made in dark emerald green,  he paid 400.-  AFG but they were not well made. There is also a bowler, embroidered with flashing sequins for wearing  under turban (some pieces resemble silk loincloth). Some men wear a vest  over a long sleeved shirt  that make good compatibility.

Afghan men - Photo : nytimes.com / Bing images search

DAY 71 - HERAT

71) TUESDAY, 6 SEPTEMBER 1977 : 139KMS. - HERAT

The distance from TAIABAD  to the border is about 22 kilometers. We arrived the border at about 8 a.m. There were a few cars of Indians from  England waiting there before our arrival.  We had to wait until nearly 9 a.m., when the border was opened and  officers began to let all vehicles pass  over. It took us about  45 minutes driving  from the border of IRAN  to reach AFGHANISTAN  checkpost.   

Iran-Afghanistan border - Photo : geolocation.ws / Google images search

There were vehicles of  Europeans , travelling from the east (INDIA),  as well as many Afghans waiting to pass the border  to IRAN.   We had to wait for the paper form  for  border crossing and vehicle checking long enough until 11.15 a.m. , thus completing the formalities.  We were asked to  open  every cupboard door  and the elevated  floor as well as the top of our seat covers  for  officials to check.

Iran-Afghanistan border - Photo : geolocation.ws / Google images search

 

It was even worse for tourists travelling to IRAN, they must be more thoroughly  inspected, bodies and vehicles. They were  required to take out all belongings to put outside of their cars until they were empty.  The officials dressed as car mechanics with screwdrivers of all sizes  and types, and knocked or tapped  on every part of the cars to detect if there should be some hashisch or ganja hiding in some possible parts of the vehicles without tiring signs.  They may get a nice reward if  they can discover illegal articles.

Afterwards I managed to get some money exchanged to pay for the insurance of about Afghanis 450.- (1 DM = 20 Afghanis) .  So we finished with all formalities in entering the country.   

Desert sandy wind - Photo : bamdadi.com / Bing images search

On the way, we faced  a sand storm,  blowing sand on the road.  There were only few cars from the opposite direction and very seldom.  In the distance alongside, we  saw  goats, sheeps and camels and tents of nomads.  The topography looks like a semi-desert with very strong cold wind.  We saw people wearing baggy Afghani pants and turbans.

Photo : bus3sigma.com / Bing images search

 

Before we arrived HERAT, we were charged for the toll fee 50.- Afg.  We came across with the bus overflowing with passengers and many were sitting on the roof.

 

DESERT SANDSTORM, AFGHANISTAN
Photo : panoramio.com (Bing images search)

 

Frightening Desert Sandstorm caption

VI. AFGHANISTAN - LAND OF LAPIS LAZULI AND GREAT CARVED SANDSTONE STANDING BUDDHA IMAGE OF BAMIYAN

DAY 70 - TAIABAD

70) MONDAY, 5 SEPTEMBER 1977 : 227KMS. - TAIABAD

From  MASHHAD we moved forward via FARIMAN, TENBAT JAM and stopped refueling the tank for fear that oil prices in AFGHANISTAN would be more expensive than in IRAN. We camped overnight in TAIABAD,  preparing to cross the border to AFGHANISTAN tomorrow. 

Photo : traveltheworld.com / Bing images search

Along the route today, we noticed the men wearing puffy pants and turbans.