DAY 71 - HERAT

71) TUESDAY, 6 SEPTEMBER 1977 : 139KMS. - HERAT

The distance from TAIABAD  to the border is about 22 kilometers. We arrived the border at about 8 a.m. There were a few cars of Indians from  England waiting there before our arrival.  We had to wait until nearly 9 a.m., when the border was opened and  officers began to let all vehicles pass  over. It took us about  45 minutes driving  from the border of IRAN  to reach AFGHANISTAN  checkpost.   

Iran-Afghanistan border - Photo : geolocation.ws / Google images search

There were vehicles of  Europeans , travelling from the east (INDIA),  as well as many Afghans waiting to pass the border  to IRAN.   We had to wait for the paper form  for  border crossing and vehicle checking long enough until 11.15 a.m. , thus completing the formalities.  We were asked to  open  every cupboard door  and the elevated  floor as well as the top of our seat covers  for  officials to check.

Iran-Afghanistan border - Photo : geolocation.ws / Google images search

 

It was even worse for tourists travelling to IRAN, they must be more thoroughly  inspected, bodies and vehicles. They were  required to take out all belongings to put outside of their cars until they were empty.  The officials dressed as car mechanics with screwdrivers of all sizes  and types, and knocked or tapped  on every part of the cars to detect if there should be some hashisch or ganja hiding in some possible parts of the vehicles without tiring signs.  They may get a nice reward if  they can discover illegal articles.

Afterwards I managed to get some money exchanged to pay for the insurance of about Afghanis 450.- (1 DM = 20 Afghanis) .  So we finished with all formalities in entering the country.   

Desert sandy wind - Photo : bamdadi.com / Bing images search

On the way, we faced  a sand storm,  blowing sand on the road.  There were only few cars from the opposite direction and very seldom.  In the distance alongside, we  saw  goats, sheeps and camels and tents of nomads.  The topography looks like a semi-desert with very strong cold wind.  We saw people wearing baggy Afghani pants and turbans.

Photo : bus3sigma.com / Bing images search

 

Before we arrived HERAT, we were charged for the toll fee 50.- Afg.  We came across with the bus overflowing with passengers and many were sitting on the roof.

 

DESERT SANDSTORM, AFGHANISTAN
Photo : panoramio.com (Bing images search)

 

Frightening Desert Sandstorm caption

VI. AFGHANISTAN - LAND OF LAPIS LAZULI AND GREAT CARVED SANDSTONE STANDING BUDDHA IMAGE OF BAMIYAN

DAY 70 - TAIABAD

70) MONDAY, 5 SEPTEMBER 1977 : 227KMS. - TAIABAD

From  MASHHAD we moved forward via FARIMAN, TENBAT JAM and stopped refueling the tank for fear that oil prices in AFGHANISTAN would be more expensive than in IRAN. We camped overnight in TAIABAD,  preparing to cross the border to AFGHANISTAN tomorrow. 

Photo : traveltheworld.com / Bing images search

Along the route today, we noticed the men wearing puffy pants and turbans.

 

DAY 69 - MASHHAD

69) SUNDAY, 4 SEPTEMBER 1977 : 0KMS. - MASHHAD

We went  for a walk around and viewed the mosque from afar again and visited a saffron shop in the bazaar.

Saffron shop - Photo : wikipedia.org / Bing imnages search

 
ADDITIONAL INFO  FROM WIKIPEDIA :

SAFFRON

MASHHAD is the major trade center of saffron in IRAN.

Saffron farming, Mashhad - Photo : insideofiran.com / Bing images search

According to the traditional medicine of Thailand, saffron is regarded as of higher value and  very expensive. It is a kind of medicine that helps maintain healthy heart and release nausea symptom. It  is the main ingredient used in Thai traditional medicine against nausea and faint…

Saffron - Photo : Amin Khosroshani / Bing images sdearch

Wikipedia :  Saffron (pronounced / sæfrən / or / sæfrɒn /)  is a spice derived from the flower of Crocus sativus, commonly known as the saffron crocus. Crocus is a genus in the family Iridaceae. Saffron crocus grows to 20-30 cm (8-12 in) and bears up to four flowers, each with three vivid crimson stigmas, which are the distal end of a carpel. Together with the styles, or stalks that connect the stigmas to their host plant, the dried stigmas are used mainly in various cuisines as a seasoning and colouring agent. Saffron, long among the world's most costly spices by weight,  is native to Greece or Southwest Asia and was first cultivated in Greece. As a genetically monomorphic clone, it was slowly propagated throughout much of Eurasia and was later brought to parts of North Africa, North America, and Oceania.

The saffron crocus, unknown in the wild, probably descends from Crocus cartwrightianus, which originated in Crete;.....


Saffron's taste and iodoform-or hay-like fragrance result from the chemicals picrocrocin and safranal.  It also contains a carotenoid dye, crocin, which imparts a rich golden-yellow hue to dishes and textiles. Its recorded history is attested in a 7th-century BC Assyrian botanical treatise compiled under Ashurbanipal, and it has been traded and used for over four millennia. Iran now accounts for approximately 90% of the world production of saffron. 

DAY 68 - MASHHAD

68) SATURDAY, 3 SEPTEMBER 1977 : 0KMS. - MASHHAD

We went to apply for visa to enter AFGHANISTAN  very early morning.  We met a new  young carpet broker , who took us to the consulate of AFGHANISTAN. The visa costed US $ 7.00.  He then took us to the carpet shop  but we did not buy any.   

Carpets shop in Shandiz near Mashad - Photo : wikipedia.org /Bing images search

Around  noon time, we went to get our passports back and changed some travelers  cheques .   Afterwards we went  to the bazaar and was brought to carpet shop again by another broker but  we did not pay much attention as they were mostly expensive and I did not think to carry it along the way.

Mashad rug - Photo : spongobongo.com/ Bing images search

Reza shrine, Mashad - Photo : wikipedia.ord / Bing images search

After visiting the carpet shop, we visited the mosque but we could just only  have a look from a far distance because tourists were  not welcome inside.  There might be also religious bigotry around that could take a simple assault against us. 

Reza shrine, Mashad - Photo : online.wsj.com / Google images search

 

Overall, the mosque  is very big and there were so many pilgrims to this place… it was  like  MECCA of the Iranian muslims .

DAY 67 - MASHHAD

67) FRIDAY, 2 SEPTEMBER 1977 : 467KMS. - MASHHAD

From MINU-DASHT we moved steadily towards the east along the Asian Highway through  ACHAR, TANGAR and GOLESTAN FOREST , a National Forest (National Park) of Iran.

Golestan Forest - Photo : wallpaperswide.com / Bing images search

There was a certain route through the desert-like landscape with Steppes pasture.  We observed  the tents of nomads with their livestock and camels grazing in the distance. We then  passed through BOJSUND, SHIRVAN and to  QUCHAN.

 

Nomad tents in the desert

We arrived MASHHAD at dusk, where we met  a carpet broker, who volunteered to take us to apply for visa for AFGHANISTAN  and escorted us to the car parking area far away from the center. We did not know what the real purpose and what he really wanted from us. Anyhow,  we did not park our campervan up there and intended to  drive back into town.  

 

Imam Reza shrine, Mashad - Photo : petra.ir / Google images search

He seemed to get  angry  and drove away with a lighter lending him for his cigarette. It  showed  us  insincerity and hypocrisy of  people (stranger) when he could not take advantage of us.